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Basic Lessons

 

Lesson #1 Lying Positioning

The position you need to assume on the board is one of the most important things you will ever learn in surfing.  Once learned properly the position will stand you in good stead to Progress.  The main trick is to remember these basic skills and don’t try to run before you can walk.
Ok so here is the breakdown of how it’s done:

  • Lay on your front in the back portion of the board. 
  • The top of your feet in contact with the tail of the board.
  • Your back arched, chin up, resting on your diaphragm.
  • All repositioning and balance is done trough pushing down with your thighs
  • Legs together and squeeze buttocks in.
  • This position allows for arms to be free for paddling or when catching your first waves simply to hold onto the rails.

Remember:  Your board will do what your body does.  If you are wibbly wobbly, you are the jelly and your board is the plate!

Remain strong and poised, take control and the board will do what you tell it to.

Lesson # 2 Catching Waves

Place your board at your side, nose facing towards the beach.  Looking out to sea watch the waves that are coming towards you and pick one that looks like it is big enough to pick you up and take you in.  You are looking for a wave with a big flat area in front of it these are good for riding. If you are on the ideal beginners board as with Progress Surf Academy, the wave won’t need to be very big at all so no drama to start with.

Just as the wave is about to reach you, jump forwards, in the direction the wave is travelling at the same time swivel yourself onto the board and assume the half press-up position hold the rails just below your shoulders and extend your arms. As the wave picks you up you should feel the board rise in the water and your speed will increase dramatically. With a bit of luck you should have just caught your first wave…Woo Hoo!

Lesson #3 Paddling for waves

Great, so now you can actually catch the waves.  Now we need to look at Paddling for waves.
 This is the best place to start paddling as paddling out is still some time away yet.  Let’s not walk before we can run.  Develop a strong paddling stroke and technique here and that will leave you in good stead for that big day when you actually get out back.

  • Repeat lesson #2 only this time jump onto your board 5 seconds earlier.
  • Keeping you body taught start to paddle for the wave.
  • One hand at a time
  • Reaching forward and very importantly Pushing right back
  • Really turn the power on and don’t stop until you feel yourself being propelled forward at hyper speed as before.
  • Now hold onto the rails and enjoy the ride!

Note:  At this stage you should be really trying to learn how the board works. 

  • Lean left to turn left
  • Lean right to turn right
  • Lay a little flatter to glide into waves more easily
  • Lean back to slow the board down
  • Even push some more board out in front of you to prevent nose diving

Remember:  The board will always work the same, whether, laying on it, standing on it or doing a head stand…The same principles apply

Lesson #4 Standing

First thing we need to do is to find out whether you are a Natural Footer, or a Goofy Footer.  This simply refers to which way around, you stand on the surfboard.  If you stand with your left foot forward you will be known as a natural footer and if you lead with your right foot you will be known as a goofy footer.

So how do you know which is right for you?  Well it is normally the stance that feels the most instinctive to you.  But there are a few simple tests:

  • Think about how you would skid on a patch of ice. When you run up to a patch of ice to skid, which foot would be your front foot? The skid position that you take on the ice will normally be your most comfortable surfing stance.
  • If you have ever been involved in a fist fight (lets hope not) or if you have ever got up on your toes whist watching a Rocky Balboa film, you might know which way around you might box.  Left foot forward or right foot forwards? Natural or Goofy?
  • Some of you might have ridden a skate board or a snow board in the past.  Well all these board sports have the basic stance in common, so think back.  Which side of the fold will you be joining?

 
Ok so without further a do.  This is actually how to get to your feet.

Note: Obviously to get to the point of being able to stand up on a surfboard and ride a wave you would have performed all the skills mentioned in the previous lessons to perfection!
 
Tip: Wait in the half press-up position for at least 2 seconds after catching the wave

Pop up

  • Hold the rails with slightly bent arms
  • Perform an explosive press-up
  • Bring your feet forward to hit the exact foot positions on the board needed to give you the perfect stance.
  • Stand up slowly
  • Always keep knees slightly bent and Ride On! 

The pop-up is the best method of getting to your feet, however some people (including many surfers who have been at it for many years) find it difficult to perform.  So here we go with our second method to the rescue.

One foot at a time

  • Hold the rails with slightly bent arms
  • Perform an explosive press-up
  • Bring your back-foot up onto the board so your heel is against your knee
  • Pushdown onto your backfoot
  • Lunge forwards and plant your front foot in the stance.

The Stance

  • Feet shoulder width apart
  • Back foot at 90˚ across the board
  • Front foot at 45˚ across the board
  • Feet roughly facing the same way i.e. standing sideways
  • Knees bent
  • Arms up for balance

Tip: It is a great idea to practice these skills in the privacy of your own home.  It will improve your fitness and will reinforce the motor skill you are trying to programme your body with.

Lesson #5 Riding waves

The art of riding waves will take a long time. To surf to any kind of stylish sort of level.  There are many different schools of thought within surfing as to what the most stylish kind of surfing is and how it is best performed.  As you start to live the life of a surfer you will realise this and so time will teach you.  For the time being though here are a few pointers:

  • Try to get long rides - More time on your feet more practice.
  • Remember that the board always works the same – Simple Physics.
  • Watch videos and the professionals
  • Avoid jumping up and down on your board – Rail to rail is key
  • Try to use the wave as best as possible – Minimum effort maximum speed and glide.

 

Lesson #6 Paddling out

Effective Paddling will rely on proper positioning on the board (as discussed earlier).  It will also rely heavily on balance on the board.  To balance on your board you should be resting on your thighs and your diaphragm.  Your back should be arched, chin up looking where you are going by shuffling your body around and pivoting on these parts of your body you should be able to stay in the correct position on the board and balance properly.

Ok so let’s look now at what you should actually be doing with your arms when paddling. 
The paddle stroke itself is made up of four main parts 

The Catch Position...Cup your hand, fingers together, reach forward with one hand and begin to pull back, you now feel your hand gain purchase on the water, and this is known as the 'Catch'.

The Pull...Pull back until your forearm is at 90 degrees to the water.  High elbows

Push...This is the most important and most often neglected part of the stroke.  You must push right back!  A short arm stroke will mean that you will be going nowhere fast.  The push forms 25% of the stroke but gives you 75% of the power!

Recovery...Your hand should now lift out of the water at the back of your stroke. It now comes over the top, not to high, there is no need.  Save energy where ever possible.

Ok so that’s the basics of paddling so now lets have a look at paddling out through the surf.  The way this is done will depend on many different things including

  • The size of the surf
  • The break you are surfing
  • The board you are riding
  • How crowded it is
  • Local knowledge etc.

 
However for the time being we will assume that you will be riding a fairly high volume minimal type board.  This is the most likely choice for any intermediate surfer.We will also assume that you will be riding a beach break with clearly defined peaks.Obviously it is really important to do a complete and thorough assessment of the conditions before paddling out. 

Ask yourself:

  • Am I able enough?
  • Are the conditions right for me?
  • Will I cope well once I’m out there?

If the answer to all three questions is YES! The light is GREEN!

  • Ok let’s get pumped up.  Switch on!
  • Run to the water
  • Aggressively jump over the initial white water.
  • Get out to waist to chest deep
  • As you jump over the waves push down on your board, look over the top of the waves and look for a lull.
  • As soon as you see a lull.  Get on your board and start to paddle hard.  Staying calm is important, control your breathing and pace yourself, however don’t dordle.
  • Ok first line of white water – Paddle aggressively toward it. Meet power with power.
  • Push down on your board and hold on to it tightly.
  • If you get knocked off use your legs spread to balance, kick them, then back on and resume paddling ASAP.
  • Second line of white water – Same again, Attack it, paddle hard, push down, balance and on with the push for the BACK.
  • Grit your teeth, determination, just keep it going!

 

 Note:  You will only really be able to ride a minimal in fairly small conditions at first.  When the waves are bigger you will need to start thinking about a smaller board or learning some extra water skills.

When riding a smaller board one of the water skills that will become essential is the fabled Duck Dive.

Lesson #7 Duck Diving

Duck diving is the way that a short boarder dives under an oncoming wave as he / she is paddling out the back. Ducking under the wave ensures that all the progress made by paddling out is not lost being washed backwards by the wave. The bigger the waves or the more frequent the waves are, the more important it becomes to be good at duck diving. This is something you are really going to have to get wired if you want to surf in crowds.

Note:
Duck Dives are impossible on long boards.  Longboarders must use the log roll,
see Log Roll section)

Traditional Duck dive
Duck Diving is an art, and one that takes a lot of practice to master. For this lesson it is a good idea that you practice on a small days and build up to larger waves as you develop your talent.

You can practice Duck Diving in any surf conditions even if it is totally flat. The aim for is to get both you and your surfboard as far under the oncoming waves as possible, recover quickly and straight back to paddling out.

Here it is ‘The Duck Dive’

  • Paddle hard toward the oncoming wave
  • Hold the rails of your board tightly
  • Push the board under the water
  • Place your back foot on the tail of the board
  • Face goes under, still pushing board down
  • Reach forward arms at stretch holding rails tight.
  • Push down with back foot
  • Use trailing leg to balance yourself
  • Tilt head towards surface
  • Just before you surface blow bubbles out of your nose.
  • Break surface, take breath
  • Keep on paddling

The log Roll (Longboards)

  • Paddle hard toward the oncoming wave
  • Hold the rails of your board tightly
  • Roll off the side of your board
  • Hold on really tightly
  • Keep your legs down to act as an anchor
  • You can even give a sharp leg kick to help you through
  • On the other side of the wave roll back onto your board
  • Keep on paddling

Note:  Both methods are hard to master at first but just keep on practising and the skill will soon come on. 

This is your bread and butter and will be performed many dozens of times in any one surf session.

 

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